Malpaís Trece

Malpaís Trece was never conceived as a hotel. For decades it was a family home set high on a headland, the Atlantic ahead and Mount Teide rising behind. Encircled by 600,000 square metres of Canarian banana groves, it distils the rural character of northern Tenerife. Built in 1955, it began welcoming travellers in 1996 and has held on to the charm and simplicity that define it.

Nothing here is symmetrical or uniform. Rooms are straightforward, with homely, unpretentious décor. Do not expect polished design or sleek finishes. The spirit of Malpaís Trece is about honesty and authenticity. Some rooms have a private terrace or sea-facing windows, others look onto the deep green of the plantation for a more intimate feel.

What sets this eight-room retreat apart, beyond the quiet and the sweeping views, is a well-kept secret tucked among the banana plants. A five-minute walk along a winding path leads to a dark-sand beach and a natural platform where you can slip straight into the Atlantic. It more than makes up for the absence of a pool. For those who prefer to keep moving, there is also a tennis court on the estate.

Garachico is just five minutes by car, one of the island’s prettiest towns with a handsome historic centre and natural rock pools by the sea. Close by, Icod de los Vinos is home to the celebrated millenary dragon tree. The area lends itself to gentle strolls, photography or simple rest, and it serves as an excellent base for coastal or mountain excursions. Hiring a car is recommended.