The Casa das Penhas Douradas may be some hundred years old but it can still be called a modern hotel which, being located some 4,500 feet high up on the Serra da Estrela mountain range, comes with simply breathtaking views. It has been revamped and modernized and in its early days was a true pioneer in what it claims to be the very first mountain lodge in the country. This is a dream place if you are looking for silence, musing and relaxation.

Guest rooms have floor to ceiling windows over a green garden and emanate that cosiness that one associates with rustic architecture, with country retreats. Internet connection, satellite TV, DVD – modern amenities that are not incompatible with distance from civilization.

A heated swimming pool with a panoramic view, sauna and hydro massage tub. And when we finally venture outside, we are met with an outdoor lover’s dream: trails and paths to explore the surroundings, mountain bikes at our disposal and – should the season require it – snow shoes and sledges. And all around us, mountain woods and lakes – and invigorating air that will do wonders to our lungs.

The closest village is Manteigas, a 4,000-soul hamlet right in the heart of the National Park of Serra da Estrela. It’s worth visiting the thermal springs as well as the Glacial Valley of the Zèzere river that, by the way, will end up contributing its waters to the mighty Tagus.